(1) Importance. The chain is one of the most crucial parts on your bike. Breaking your chain at the wrong place at the wrong time can result in catastrophe. Take care of your chain and it will take care of you. 

(2) Adjustment. Improper chain adjustment will cause excessive wear. Ideally, the chain will have just a bit of tension at its tightest point, which is when the countershaft sprocket, swingarm pivot and rear axle are in alignment. Three fingers from the rear of the chain buffer pad to the chain is the rule of thumb, but the recommended slack is different among brands. Getting the sprocket perfectly aligned with the chain is crucial for proper wear. It’s best to double-check the axle marks by measuring to the swingarm pivot and watching to make sure the chain and sprocket are straight. 

(3) Replacement. When to replace your chain is a judgment call. If you want to get technical, D.I.D recommends replacing the chain after it’s elongated by 2 percent. Your bike’s sprockets are also a good indicator. If the teeth are starting to get cupped out, snaggle-toothed or uneven, your chain is probably past its prime. The best way to measure elongation is between the center points of your choice of pins. Each pitch (distance from pin to pin) is 0.625 inches, so if you measure 10 pitches on a brand-new chain, it will come out to be 6.25 inches. Two percent of 6.25 is 0.125 inches, so if 10 pitches of your chain have a measured distance of 6.375 inches or longer, then it is time to change your drive components.

(4) Sprockets. Change both the chain and sprockets at the same time. Using a new chain on an old sprocket, or vice versa, will have adverse effects on the new components. Of course, steel and titanium sprockets will last longer than aluminum and won’t need to be changed as often. 

(5) Movement. How much side-to-side movement should your chain have? There isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer, as non-sealed chains will have more side-to-side play than O-ring-sealed chains. Unfortunately, we can’t put a numerical value on this. Basically, if the side-to-side play seems excessive, then the chain is more than likely at or past its replacement time. 

(6) Chain lube. Lubricate your chain shortly after riding. The chain temperature after riding can be anywhere from 35 to 85 degrees higher than the ambient temperature, and a warm chain allows the lubrication to reach all parts more easily, especially down into the rollers and bushings. Also, the lubricant will dry before the next ride, and this can minimize lubricant spray. 

(7) Cleaning. By keeping the chain clean, you can prevent uneven wear on the rollers and also reduce damage to the sprockets. Given that a chain lives close to the ground, it’s prone to accumulating dirt, debris and other foreign objects. We recommend Maxima’s MPPL or a chain cleaner after washing your bike to displace water and prevent rusting. When the chain is dry, apply chain lube.

(8) Mud. If your drive components are dusty, you can easily clean them with a cleaner and then oil them without any issues. Mud, on the other hand, can accumulate on the chain, causing premature and uneven wear, but it may also remain on the bottom of the sprocket teeth. In this case, the chain may get tighter because it can’t settle on the bottom of the teeth. This negatively affects the pressure put on the chain and the sprockets, resulting in premature and uneven wear. If you are riding in off-road, muddy conditions, adjust the chain to be slightly looser than usual to compensate.

(9) Notching. If the chain becomes rigid, you won’t be able to bend it with your fingers, but the power of the bike can still bend it. Change it as soon as possible. Bending it with force will naturally cause considerable wear on the sprocket, especially with aluminum sprockets; you’ll wear out the sprocket and even break teeth much more easily with a rigid chain.  

(10) Break-in. Every chain has a break-in period of a few hours during which the chain will stretch a few millimeters. The rear sprocket bolts need to be checked more closely after you replace a sprocket. Bonus tip: Because they are in such a high stress area, we recommended using new sprocket bolts every other time you replace a rear sprocket.