2011 Capilene Comparison Diagram – when the Capilene Product Naming Scheme was easier to understand

Patagonia Capilene baselayers are next-to-skin technical garments made from recycled polyester that dry fast and wick moisture. They provide a capillary-like action that rapidly wicks perspiration off your skin so it can dry faster. I always thought Capilene's wicking properties came from specially engineered polyester fabrics and weaves, but that is only part of the story.

In the mid-80's, Patagonia and a company named Milliken developed a specially shaped polyester fiber that differed from regular, cylindrically shaped polyester fibers. They developed a process that extruded fibers that were star- or cross-shaped, so they had grooves running along their sides that would wick moisture away from your skin and spread it out so it would dry faster, something akin to capillary action. Patagonia branded it Capilene.

While researching the origins of Capilene for background on upcoming clothing reviews, I learned that Patagonia created the same wicking effect as early as 1985 by coating polyester fibers with chemical agents to create the special wicking effect, rather than extruding the star- or cross-shaped fibers developed in conjunction with Milliken. Polyester fibers naturally repel moisture, but coating them with a chemical finish makes their outer surface water-loving so moisture pools, spreads out, and evaporates more quickly.

Normally, polyester is a water hating, or hydrophobic, fabric. The surface of the fibers of Capilene polyester, however, have been chemically altered to make them water loving. Thus, a very thin skin of each Capilene fiber absorbs water while its inner, untreated core repels it. This combination of opposing forces creates a fabric that wicks with great efficiency. Water molecules are attracted to the surface of the fibers; once there, they spread out, drying rapidly. From the 1985 Patagonia Product catalog.

Patagonia uses a chemical coating to create its wicking effect, instead of extruding a star- or cross-shaped fiber that would last forever, because of cost. It's simply less expensive. But as you'll see below, when the chemical coating washes out, there's no way to restore it.

To their credit, Patagonia published information about its wicking-finish practices and their limited durability recently, in 2026.

Moisture-wicking fabrics can lose effectiveness when laundered, so follow the care instructions printed on the white tag inside your clothes. Wicking treatments can degrade with time and use. Laundry detergents and fabric softeners (also called conditioners) contain waxes that can interfere with the wicking chemistry and reduce the effectiveness of your sweat-wicking garments. Avoid using harsh detergents, dryer sheets, waxes, fabric softeners and stain removers, and keep your washing machine and dryer on the low- or medium-heat setting to avoid damaging the synthetic fibers. With a little care, your gear can have a long, interesting life. From What is Moisture Wicking and Why Does it Matter?

I own several generations of Capilene Baselayers going back to 1988, so I suspect my older garments, washed hundreds of times by now, have long since lost their wicking finishes. While I think they still work well in a layering system, in part because they have mesh-like weave long since abandoned by Patagonia, I'm disappointed to learn that some of the unique wicking properties I've attributed to Capilene, including my more modern purchases, can wash down the drain.

Patagonia is very obtuse about listing which Capilene garments use these moisture-wicking washes, and I think it'd be nice if they were more upfront with that information. But now, knowing that Capilene's special wicking properties can wash out over time, definitely changes the cost-benefit calculus in my head. I want baselayer clothing that maintains its technical capabilities over time without special care. I thought Capilene did that. Now I know differently.

That's just my opinion.

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