• Wandering around amongst the Puya raimondii, the largest bromeliads in the world.
• Cresting a double pass en route to Huallanca, with views of the Cordillera Blanca to one side and the Cordillera Huayhuash to the other.
• Rollercoasting along dirt roads through the idyllic villages of the Huayhuash.
• Climbing up through a chain of emerald green and turquoise lakes en route to Abra Raura.
• Observing the juxtaposition of the Raura Minera and the hanging glaciers that surround it.
• Reaching Oyón and the bikepackers’ hangout of the Andes Hotel, where market delights and cakes abound.

• Like the Peru Great Divide as a whole, the nature of the riding here is, as a baseline, very challenging. Even if distances seem modest at first glance, elevation and daily climbing tallies will take their toll on the body, especially without sufficient initial acclimatisation and ongoing rest days, so plan your trip accordingly. In short, elevation gain is a far more relevant metric here than distance.
• This particular route dives straight in at the deep end, elevation-wise. Take the time to enjoy some day rides out of Huaraz; I’ll be posting a number of suggestions soon. Otherwise, Peru’s Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash – The Hiking & Biking Guide by Neil and Harriet Pike is a great resource. Wikiloc is a good one too, as it’s very popular in Latin America.
• If your bike can accommodate them, I’d suggest a tyre size of at least 2.6 inches for comfort on a rigid ATB—or perhaps 2.4s if you’re running front suspension. Mostly, though, pack as light as you can and run typical MTB-style gearing. An over-geared bike, or a heavily laden one, is a surefire way to exhaustion in this part of the world.
• In fact, it’s worth heading out on an overnighter before you begin any long trip in Peru. Should you decide you’re packing too much, the bus company Cruz del Sur offers a cargo service—called encomienda—direct to Lima or other towns and cities the company serves. It’s extremely secure and very reasonably priced, and your box can be stored for up to 20 days. Saving a few extra kilos can make all the difference to how much you enjoy riding in Peru—just make sure you don’t skimp out on food storage capacity.
• Staying topped up: Although this ride feels remote, there are plenty of small settlements en route. As such, a buffer battery is all you need, since there are frequent charging spots.
• Staying connected: Cell service is hit and miss. Bitel is often considered the best mobile service for the mountains, whilst Claro is the network of choice for towns. The likes of an InReach Mini 2 is a nice way of keeping in touch without being tied to a phone./li>
• Staying cosy: A sleeping bag rated between -5°C and -10°C should tide you through the coldest parts of the night and allow camping at high elevations, which are generally the best spots! Even if you’re in a T-shirt during the day, temperatures can be frigid before sunrise and after sunset.
• Seasons: This ride is best undertaken from April/May to September, when rainfall is less likely, and weather patterns are most stable. Avoid the rainy season (October/November to March) as it brings intense afternoon electric storms that will likely have you hunkering down off the bike for several hours a day. The shoulder seasons can be hit or miss, too. This is the mountains, so even in the dry season, always pack full waterproofs, as well as warm gloves for long and cold descents. If you get caught out, there are lots of locally made woollen socks and hats on offer, and hardware stores often stock heavy-duty winter gear for motorbikers and mine workers.
• Cátac: The route begins in Huaraz, but I’d actually recommend you skip the first 40 kilometres of pavement and start riding in Cátac, as it’s an easy colectivo (shared minivan) ride away. Whilst the paved road isn’t especially busy, expect to share it with trucks and buses. The RWGPS file begins at the colectivo stand, so you can make that call. If you choose to take a colectivo, expect to pay extra for your bike, depending on how many seats it occupies in the minivan. Typically, two bikes take up four seats, so you’ll pay for six seats in total, which at the time of writing amounts to S/36.
• Shortly after the turnoff to Pastoruri, there’s a S/60 fee to pay, which grants you access to the area and the right to camp for two nights, even if you’ll likely just use up one of them.
• Dangers and annoyances: For the most part, this region is now considered very safe to travel. However, it’s always best to camp out of sight when you can, or to ask local communities if there’s any doubt about where you’re pitching, particularly if you’re close to any dwellings. For the most part, it will be motley dogs that will instill the most fear in bikepackers. They can be aggressive and will often take chase, particularly if in a pack, at least until you’re beyond the invisible line of their territory. Stopping to confront them is one option, placing your bike between you and them in worse case situations. Some avoid eye contact; others stare at them. Feigning throwing a stone at them will often do the trick, or even having a few handy for those who are less easily duped. Locals will often call them off if they’re around. But if you’re someone who struggles with dogs generally, bear in mind that Peru may not be the place for you.
• It’s easy to hop on a bus to Lima from Oyón. The Cruzero line terminates in central Lima, a reasonably short bike ride from places like Miraflores. Otherwise, other lines terminate in Plaza Norte, closer to the airport.
• This is a complementary route to the Peru Great Divide, so check out the main route guide for much more info and insight on the area.

• Wild camping is possible every night, if you so wish. A few possible spots are marked on the map, or check the iOverlander app for up-to-date options.
• A variety of lodging is also available, from extremely basic rooms with hay-bale-like pillows in small community villages (S/15), to bikepacking-friendly spots that are used to seeing cyclists (S/25-40). A few are marked on the map, or check the iOverlander app for options.
• In Huaraz, options abound. However, Hostal Tambo is the undisputed hub for bikepackers, and rightly so. It’s extremely well run, and despite its proximity to the main market, it’s also surprisingly quiet. The shared facilities—kitchen and bathrooms—are impeccably clean. Joe’s Place is another recommended spot with a lovely, large garden and a satisfying breakfast, though it’s close to a school, so it can be noisy in the mornings. Otherwise, for more refined digs, Hotel Cherup is a solid option.
• In Huallanca, your best bet is the friendly Joker Hotel (40-50 soles). There’s room for bikes, plus a kettle, Wi-Fi, and very hot showers.
• In Oyón, the wonderful Hotel Andes is a hub for cyclists and motorbikers alike. It’s the perfect spot to take a rest day (or two), with a number of rooms to suit different budgets (25-40 soles) and a large, calming, flowery courtyard.

• Food is available in abundance and you won’t need to carry more than a day and a night’s worth, plus snacks. Just expect it to be simple and somewhat repetitive, whether in shops or restaurants.
• My go-to shopping list, available in most stores, includes pasta, onion, garlic, local mature cheese, avocado, and tomatoes. Packaged cookies are easy to find in any store, but I prefer local bags of sweet “canchas” and kiwicha, energy balls made from quinoa and amaranth. Those with wobbly teeth, however, should steer clear of the latter.
• Your best value proposition is to see out a “menu” at lunchtime; typically a hearty soup, cup of muña tea, and a main course (with an obligatory mound of rice) for S/10 or less. Carry out what you can’t eat for second lunches on the road, or to bulk up your dinner.
• Altomayo is a good brand of easily available coffee, whether instant or preground.
• If you prefer your bread to be savoury and not sweet, ask around for “pan de piso.” 1/S will get you about 5.
• Water is easily available, but be aware of where you pull from in mining areas. The capacity to carry 2-4 litres should be plenty. Use a filter too, as there are no end of cows, sheep, and alpacas roaming. Many filters become ineffective if frozen, so be sure to bring yours into your tent with you at night.
• Huaraz has most of the specialty food you could want—the market and surrounding streets have all manner of bulk items, like nuts, dried fruit, and porridge oats—but a few specialty items from home, like vitamins, dehydrated meals, and rehydration salts—are nice to have with you. Outside towns and cities, fresh vegetables can be a bit of a rarity.
• Pro Tip: Buy some stock packets and add one to your pasta water you drain off at camp. We call this Pike Soup after Peru bikepacking legends Harriet and Neil Pike, and it’s a great way to rehydrate and regain some lost salts.
• Sam’s Rice’s How to Thrive in the Andes has a tonne of cooking ideas too.

As mentioned, this route can easily be modified to suit all tastes.

Want the full Huayhuash Experience? Then use this route from Huallanca to Oyon.

Want to avoid hike-a-bikes at all costs? Then divert via La Union and Baños, on this route.

Want to turn it into a loop? Try this route, which uses the original Peru Great Divide as a way of returning to Huaraz, with a detour up the stone forest at Hatun Machay as well. There’s a refugio there that’s popular with climbers—camping is currently S/25 sol, and a dorm is S/30. Both include access to bathrooms, a shower, and a basic kitchen.